Need someone to help
- Thread starter Nmertz1
- Start date
CRW Reef;268955 said:
As a wise man (bajamike) once told me....always always use new bulkheads when setting up new tanks 
With that being said I would grab new bulk heads myself. I can't see them being anny bigger than 1" or 3/4". Sorry to see you're having issues.
With that being said I would grab new bulk heads myself. I can't see them being anny bigger than 1" or 3/4". Sorry to see you're having issues.
I'm sorry I have so many questions and can't seem to figure this out..
So traditionally you would have 2 holes in the tank. So looking down inside the tank you will see two holes. This is where you will outh the new bulkheads. You will put the bulk head male end down with the gaskets brien sandwhiched between the glass and large flanged end of the bulk heads. Then on the underside of the tank you will screw on the plastic nut to the male end hand/finger tight. This will then squeeze the squeeze the gaskets tight and give you a water tight seal.
Now usually if you are looking at the tank the bulk head on the right will be your return and the one on the left will be your over flow line to the sump.
So...options being to you want pipe thread bulk heads on male portion or slip (meaning you have to glue your over flow line to sump). If you use threaded you will want to use thread tape on the male adapter (just a few wraps).
Hope this helps.
Now usually if you are looking at the tank the bulk head on the right will be your return and the one on the left will be your over flow line to the sump.
So...options being to you want pipe thread bulk heads on male portion or slip (meaning you have to glue your over flow line to sump). If you use threaded you will want to use thread tape on the male adapter (just a few wraps).
Hope this helps.
This is essentially the way it looks:
The yellow is the tank bottom, below would be into the sump, above is in the overflow box. The grey is the clear PVC you need to buy. The top two black boxes represent the lock line returns.
Ideally you have your gaskets above the glass, on the wetside. BUT because Cadlights has their funky design, I don't think I could get that to work, hence in my pics from yesterday, I mounted them on the dry side. It worked, but not ideal.
[attachment=65084:name]
What is leaking on yours, the return only or the drain?
The yellow is the tank bottom, below would be into the sump, above is in the overflow box. The grey is the clear PVC you need to buy. The top two black boxes represent the lock line returns.
Ideally you have your gaskets above the glass, on the wetside. BUT because Cadlights has their funky design, I don't think I could get that to work, hence in my pics from yesterday, I mounted them on the dry side. It worked, but not ideal.
[attachment=65084:name]
What is leaking on yours, the return only or the drain?
You could do 2, but it'll be loud. And it won't fix it your leaking underneath in the sump.
Just for kicks, put your gasket underneath in the sump area, but just for the drain. It's the way I had it running when I had it, again, not ideal, but might be the only option and only way to actually do it with the plumbing Cadlights supplys.
Just for kicks, put your gasket underneath in the sump area, but just for the drain. It's the way I had it running when I had it, again, not ideal, but might be the only option and only way to actually do it with the plumbing Cadlights supplys.