Syn's 850g.t.v Deep Brain system
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I was kinda wondering the same thing. There must be some sort of equation...or some anecdotal evidence.
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There are equations for it. If the flow is high enough, the equation is simplified to a simple heat transfer model over the surface area of the pex between two temperatures and the thermal conductivity coefficient (like R value in home insulation but inverse) is lowered because of the insulating properties of the pex. If the flow isnt high enough, you have to also factor in the temperature drop or increase inside the pipe as well, which turns it into a fairly complex differential equation, but is still solvable.
If I knew the associated variables: pex length, pex ID and OD, approximate temps of water lines, approximate tank target temp, and the wattage of the pump that drives them, I can run the simplified heat transfer model to determine the equivalent watts or BTU/hr of the system.
Without actually running the calculations, I don't expect a huge effect because you need a large temp difference and a large surface area to do any real heating or cooling even if you used a high thermal conductivity material like titanium or copper.
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If I knew the associated variables: pex length, pex ID and OD, approximate temps of water lines, approximate tank target temp, and the wattage of the pump that drives them, I can run the simplified heat transfer model to determine the equivalent watts or BTU/hr of the system.
Without actually running the calculations, I don't expect a huge effect because you need a large temp difference and a large surface area to do any real heating or cooling even if you used a high thermal conductivity material like titanium or copper.
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SynDen
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True, copper does transfer the heat better, but only slightly better. Pex is used alot in radiant heating systems in some houses, where they run coils of pex under the floor boards. Pex is used specifically because it transfers heat so well, and is non conductive. The only better option to pex lines is Titanium, and well thats a bit out my price range, as it would likely cost somewhere between $5000 or so to have a titanium coil made
There is about 50-60 ft worth of pex for each coil. I basically put as much as I could down there without taking up to much space in the chamber. I calculated it once when I was first planning, and I determined that 30-35 ft of tubing was the minimum amount required. By increasing the amount of surface area with more tubing, it should make it more efficient overall, as it will ensure full transfer of heat before the water reaches the end of the coil.
There is about 50-60 ft worth of pex for each coil. I basically put as much as I could down there without taking up to much space in the chamber. I calculated it once when I was first planning, and I determined that 30-35 ft of tubing was the minimum amount required. By increasing the amount of surface area with more tubing, it should make it more efficient overall, as it will ensure full transfer of heat before the water reaches the end of the coil.
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SynDen
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So hadnt been thinking about doing this for a while, and was bored at work today, so I decided to get the model out of the way.
These are adjustable nozzles for the 1" lines on my close loop. Ocean motion makes something similar but they charge an arm and a leg since they are the only ones that do make them. So, I decided I should put my 3d skill to work on the model. Now just need to get them printed.
View attachment 13165 View attachment 13166
These are adjustable nozzles for the 1" lines on my close loop. Ocean motion makes something similar but they charge an arm and a leg since they are the only ones that do make them. So, I decided I should put my 3d skill to work on the model. Now just need to get them printed.
View attachment 13165 View attachment 13166
I can probably print them. Wanna send me the files? Michael.lemke@unco.edu
Want abs? I also may be able to use the resin printer,depending on size, and they’ll be smooth.
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Want abs? I also may be able to use the resin printer,depending on size, and they’ll be smooth.
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SynDen
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Ya I think stl is the standard for any 3D prints. I could send you a file to try. I need to test them a bit before I print all 4 sets anyway. Need to make sure it threads to 1inch pvc fitting, and need to make sure they can snap together and hold together
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SynDen
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I was reading this and remembered this thread on r2r. Not sure if this is aloud or not but this thread was all about using a titanium heat exchanger to heat his aquarium with his hot water heater for about 300 bucks. all parts are listed and assembly is explained. Probably to late for you but I read it a while back and found it interesting. It also states that pex can grow legionella which is very bad for you if left stagnate in pex. Not sure how accurate this is but you can check it out. The link for the heat exchanger is sold out but this is the same one but more expensive now. 100 bucks more or so
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Titanium-T...058425&hash=item41dcdb4a4a:g:Z8wAAOSwKJhbT0Bg
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/h...r-save-40-on-energy-cost.338018/#post-4201054
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Titanium-T...058425&hash=item41dcdb4a4a:g:Z8wAAOSwKJhbT0Bg
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/h...r-save-40-on-energy-cost.338018/#post-4201054
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SynDen
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Nice. Thanks for that, hadnt seen that particular thread. I may explore the titanium option at some point down the road. I did put drains in my lines so not really worried about anything stagnating, but Ill be monitoring its use over the first year to make sure it turns on at least once a day. He lists a cheaper version of the circ pump I need too, which is great. Most I had looked at were well over 200, but the one he is using is only 90. Will have to order that today 
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SynDen
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Okay, finally back to making some progress on this build.
Ordered a dual stage Ranco the other day and the hot water circ pump, and will be finishing up the heating system once it gets here.
Also have been working on the flanges that go around each of the closed loop jets in the tank. I had some acrylic sheets cut out so I could fit a pvc coupler into them. Used some weld-on 40 to bond those together to make the flanges, then used weld-on 16 to bond those to the inside of the tank.
Now if there is ever an issue with any of the 8 bulk heads that are exposed in the tank, I can shove a 4inch piece of pvc into them and create a temporary dam. The white are just about at the height I want for the sand bed so they will mostly vanish into the sand once its filled. The ones on the back I did in grey sch80 so that they mostly blend into the back too.
Now I just need to get the nozzles for remaining outlets on the closed loop
View attachment 14005 View attachment 14006 View attachment 14007
Ordered a dual stage Ranco the other day and the hot water circ pump, and will be finishing up the heating system once it gets here.
Also have been working on the flanges that go around each of the closed loop jets in the tank. I had some acrylic sheets cut out so I could fit a pvc coupler into them. Used some weld-on 40 to bond those together to make the flanges, then used weld-on 16 to bond those to the inside of the tank.
Now if there is ever an issue with any of the 8 bulk heads that are exposed in the tank, I can shove a 4inch piece of pvc into them and create a temporary dam. The white are just about at the height I want for the sand bed so they will mostly vanish into the sand once its filled. The ones on the back I did in grey sch80 so that they mostly blend into the back too.
Now I just need to get the nozzles for remaining outlets on the closed loop
View attachment 14005 View attachment 14006 View attachment 14007
SynDen
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