Shawn's 175g Peninsula Build
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I got both the speaker (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006BCCAE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and 12v power supply (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K6AHNWC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and just plugged it into one of the Apex EB8 outlets. Then, program the outlet to react to whatever alerts I wanted such as High sump float switch on...
The only other interesting things that I am using are the solenoids to control flow. There are going to be 6 in all:
1. RODI Fill. When Fresh water tank Lo switch is ON, Solenoid opens to allow in water. When Fresh Water tank Hi switch is ON, solenoid closes.
2. Apex DoS Water change - A solenoid for both water in and water out will be used so that line is only open when pump is running. This is to avoid pump failure which could allow siphon situation
3. Apex DoS Alk and Calc dosing - same thing
4. Automatic Top Off - The freshwater tank feeds the sump via a Kent float valve. Should the valve leak or fail open and the sump fill, a Hi level switch in the sump will close a solenoid on the feed line.
The ATO solenoid is the most interesting, as I could not find a Normally Open solenoid with 1/4" NPT or John Gust fitting. Only thing I could find was 1/2" MPT 12 volt. It should work fine, but looks like a beast with all of the plumbing adapters to get it to use my fittings.
Shawn
1. RODI Fill. When Fresh water tank Lo switch is ON, Solenoid opens to allow in water. When Fresh Water tank Hi switch is ON, solenoid closes.
2. Apex DoS Water change - A solenoid for both water in and water out will be used so that line is only open when pump is running. This is to avoid pump failure which could allow siphon situation
3. Apex DoS Alk and Calc dosing - same thing
4. Automatic Top Off - The freshwater tank feeds the sump via a Kent float valve. Should the valve leak or fail open and the sump fill, a Hi level switch in the sump will close a solenoid on the feed line.
The ATO solenoid is the most interesting, as I could not find a Normally Open solenoid with 1/4" NPT or John Gust fitting. Only thing I could find was 1/2" MPT 12 volt. It should work fine, but looks like a beast with all of the plumbing adapters to get it to use my fittings.
Shawn
I haven't really put together a stock list yet. Nothing too out of the ordinary. The clean up crew will be made up of mostly Cerith and Nassarius snails and Tuxedo Urchins - no crabs or sea cucumbers. Probably a couple of cleaner shrimp.
Fish and CUC will start their QT right after Spring Break. I think I will start with a Royal Gamma and a pair of Ocellaris Clowns. Eventually there will be a Purple Tang after all of the peaceful fish are in the tank. Other than that, my kids choose the inhabitants as long as they are compatible and don't eat SPS, lol.
Fish and CUC will start their QT right after Spring Break. I think I will start with a Royal Gamma and a pair of Ocellaris Clowns. Eventually there will be a Purple Tang after all of the peaceful fish are in the tank. Other than that, my kids choose the inhabitants as long as they are compatible and don't eat SPS, lol.
Quick gotcha you need to be aware of. When you use the DOS wizard, you are unable to determine ON vs OFF of the pump heads to relate the solenoids to it (hopefully this will be fixed in a future firmware release). The only way it can be done is if you use OSC and profiles to code the DOS heads. When you do it that way, there are definitive ON and OFF states that you can use for the solenoid coding.
Thanks - I have my old DIY LED's that I had made from the last tank I am using. I remember that they cost a fortune to build back then compared to what you can buy retail for now, but that's the biz. They are going to be way over powered as I had them for a 30" depth vs. 24" on this tank, but I will just let the Apex adjust them down.
The lights themselves are just Cree's mounted on huge heat sinks. My plan is to create a 1" x 2" frame to hold them and then wrap that in a slightly patina copper. Wires will all be hidden in a single pipe that also suspends the unit from the ceiling. Sort of an industrial look. Not sure if it will come together as I have it pictured, but we'll see.
The lights themselves are just Cree's mounted on huge heat sinks. My plan is to create a 1" x 2" frame to hold them and then wrap that in a slightly patina copper. Wires will all be hidden in a single pipe that also suspends the unit from the ceiling. Sort of an industrial look. Not sure if it will come together as I have it pictured, but we'll see.
Woke up to a nice little flood this morning. I bought a few Kent Marine float valves. The one used in my freshwater holding tank was supposed to be a backup in case the upper float switch failed and left the water on. Unfortunately, the compression nuts that came with them are all crap. The tubing actually wiggled it's way out of the nut and onto the floor. Water founds its way to my access hole in the floor I made and, well, let's just say that my basement ceiling was dripping water when I checked it out.
Bleh...
I replaced the nut with one from a spare RO unit and it cleared that up.
Bleh...
I replaced the nut with one from a spare RO unit and it cleared that up.
Nice. We are planning a HUGE LED build for the 300. I will post a build thread once it starts, but the plan is to use around 400 LED's. They will include the full gamut of the colors available. Right now we are planning on using cool white, warm white, neutral white, royal blue, blue, cyan, 620-630nm red, 650-670nm deep red, 720-730nm far red, 400-410nm UV, and 410-420 violet. We are currently planning on 5 dimmable channels - white, blue, red, cyan, and UV/Violet. It is going to be a HUGE undertaking, but is far from my first LED build.
I am sorry to hear about the flood. Hopefully it didn't do too much damage before you found the problem and came up with the solution.
I am sorry to hear about the flood. Hopefully it didn't do too much damage before you found the problem and came up with the solution.
. I think I caught the flood before too much was affected. Go figure that this is right after I upgraded all of the RODI components and the unit is putting out more volume than ever.