New Tank Build- From Scratch. Step by step. All things considered

skebo

Blenny
M.A.S.C Club Member
#61
So If i followed you right... The calculations used where same for measuring volume in gallons. Using exact figures now. 96x24x31.5= 74880 * 0.00432900433 324gallons at brim. Then I run this again but to the bottom of the overflow teeth where the water would drop to in a pump off situation. 96x24.28.2= 64972.8 =281. 43 gallons would drain when the pump shut off. That sound right? I had done the top of teeth above which would be no good. This is of course if water was filled to the brim, which it won't be. However safe number to use for whats in the line for back flow and such?
 

tlsrcs

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#62
right so if you return line sites above the lowest teeth on your overflow everything above the teeth will flow to the sump. if you returns are below the overflow teeth then everything above that point will flow back to the sump and dont forget the plumbing will hold a few gallons as well
 

skebo

Blenny
M.A.S.C Club Member
#64
Plumbing design plan A. 300 overflow to multiple interconnected sumps. (no 150) 300g Overflows 1300gph max each x2 down and into this guy. He is 36x15x18 or 42 gallons. Baffles would keep this from getting full. Put this on shelf elevated high. Fill LR.
[attachment=60999:name]
 

skebo

Blenny
M.A.S.C Club Member
#65
Then take one drain and gravity feed and route to this guy. Lets call the top one Sump A, and this Sump B. 36x12x19t. Let this center compartment hold the skimmer, under sump A leaving room for collection cup. Note hole on other side, to feed 1part return pump??



[attachment=61001:name]
 

tlsrcs

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#66
you will have to make sure you match the flow between the sump "A" and "B" other wise "A" will overflow and "B" will get sucked dry. so valves will need to be installed between sumps. But it does not look like to bad of a plan.
 

skebo

Blenny
M.A.S.C Club Member
#67
The other drain from Sump A drain into this guy. Sump C 30x12x12 (going to need to check that). Turn this into fuge. (copes and macro for feeding tangs/angels) Let this too drain out side to return pump. This would sit under sump A, but same level as sump B.
\[attachment=61002:name]

Can you have a Y split into (before) the return sump? This would allow me to fill sump B and C, in the event of a pump shut off. This should give me about 50 Gallons for the combo of B and C, room for LR, skimmer, and fuge around skimmer.
 

skebo

Blenny
M.A.S.C Club Member
#68
Sump A has what appears to be 2x 2" bulkheads which would exceed the capacity of the DT. Gate or ball valves to further hone it here sure. I was thinking if I elevate this enough, I can split off my return pump a few times for more current capabilites or for reactors or whatever comes up. To pump out water changes :)
 

tlsrcs

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#69
Definitaly do a manifold i know ill be doing one when ever i can find a internal pump....but wouldnt sump "A" continue to over flow in to sump "B and C" in the case of a power or pump outtage?
 

skebo

Blenny
M.A.S.C Club Member
#70
Only to the hight of that last baffle 10th inches up. I could make it taller too but that adds to water volume as well...if my thinking is right.
 

tlsrcs

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#73
not sure lol i tried drawing what we are trying to accomplish let me think about this ill post what i can figure out if anything....basically you want DT to drain to a series of 3 sumps all conected using gravity....one return pump with a manifold??
 

tlsrcs

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#76
hhmmm looks good...and everything is going to back syphon? as in from Sump "C" to "A" and pump "B" to "A"?? i just would worry about "C" filling up to quickly
 

skebo

Blenny
M.A.S.C Club Member
#77
No, The tank would drain to bottom of teeth overflows into a. A would Sit higher so would drain to baffle level 10" down into both B and C. So B&C combined would be to hold the extra water. It would be close though, and could end up not being a great idea. If i needed a few gallons I could put B and C up higher to not level with A, but not completely under either. So some of A return would fill up as well?

Here is a simpler plan, but perhaps with some less room for everything I want, using the 150 as a sump...I think i would have to drill just 1 hole. No idea if the baffle design is any good...


[attachment=61008:name]
 

skebo

Blenny
M.A.S.C Club Member
#79
Big thanks to CRW for coming over and having a look at everything! Thanks for tolerating the house in disarray, kids racing around, and unexpectedly having to jet to boyscouts.
I love your idea, and am trying to hone in the how to make it work. I thought maybe everyone here could have a look and give thier 2 cents.

His Idea was to use the 150 as a sump/fuge with no baffles, and plumb a smaller sump for the skimmer downstream. I drew the following diagram, and if we can figure out the backflow for water if the pump goes out, this would be a setup I could have up and running the quickest.


If I use the overflows from the 150, the 150 will be mostly full of water. So the DT, will drain to it, and keep it overflowing 40-50 gal (if cal is correct??) which would continue to flow into the second sump and that would overflow. However, What if I used 2 smaller sumps downstream one to catch each of the 150 overflows, and let them both Y into the return pump. That should give me the 40-50 extra gallons of space for the DT? The 150 has teeth right at the top, so it won't drain more than an inch or so. I suppose really this would just be some more space for backflow, but could house doseing, ato, and future reactors?

Would this work? [attachment=61017:name]
 
Top