New Tank Build- From Scratch. Step by step. All things considered

Walter White

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
I have at least 25' of unused 1" white spa flex Ill sell you for $20. Thats a lot cheaper than any store. It sells for about $1.50/ft online. Its great for reducing flow restriction.
 

tlsrcs

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
lol you could get a beckett skimmer. they require a preasure pump and you can get multiple becketts that will eat up some of that flow.
 

skebo

Blenny
M.A.S.C Club Member
So I think I have found some bottlenecks in my plumbing plan. First, lets just focusing on the drains, but remember the pump is 4800 gph including head at 10-15'. This would only be reduced slightly by another few feet of head and elbows and such.
The dt has 2 overflows at 1.5" each. Thats 1300gph or 2600gph total.
This drains into the 150. Unfortunitily I found the only bulkheads that would fit are 3/4". Thats 330Gph each or 1320gph total (using 2 drains, and 2 returns as all drains)
So, my 1.5" that comes down to the 150, I will T off with a 1" drain that I can route to a smaller sump for the change.
[attachment=61070:name]


Then I began to do the math for the smaller sumps and linking them together. If I have up to 2600gph eventually draining into all the smaller sumps, then the link between them needs to support this transfer rate as well. Working backwards, where I just dropped the 1" splice of each drain from the dt, could be up to 1200gph into this sump alone. So By my math I would need 2 1" bulkheads, but linking those together does not give me more surface area when linking with the same 1" pipe to the other sumps. So perhaps I need 2x 1" links between all the sumps to get close to 1200gph?

If I did this could I tee off this line to the return pump? Or tee the two lines togther and have that tee off to the return pump? So I have no air, but also sucking from all three sumps?[attachment=61071:name]

I plan on having the pump come out, and route into a manifold with a several way split. This would be 1x dt return, 1x the other dt return, one to sump a, b, or c depending on where I plump in the pump, and one closed to the laundry sink for future water changes.

Where am I going wrong? What am I overdoing? If I am correct, the most I can pump up to the dt, is 2600gph as those 1.5" drains won't drain any more. So that return splice back into the little sump will have to handle the rest, but this sounds like a lot of water in a 15-20 gallon little sump. Also I cant put it back into the 150, because of its draining capacity being limited. I am too chicken to drill such a big tank.

Please help.
 

Wicked Color

Tiger Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
Ball valve one overflow, and run it at full siphon, and allow the second to act like as a secondary in a bean animal
 

CRW Reef

Blue Whale
M.A.S.C Club Member
ex-officio
Neil, I vote smaller pump. Smaller pump would solve all your problems with to much flow. Just my $.02
 

tlsrcs

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
Every ten feet of pipe through which water will travel horizontally contributes 1 foot of head height (10:1 ratio). Every 90 degree turn in your plumbing will contribute 1 foot of head pressure (1:1 ratio).
yes a smaller pump would solve it all. but if you use alot of elbows and a manifold you could also run a return in to each sump at a slower rate then one return into one sump at a fast rate. also Wicked does a full siphon drain more? i would think it would. if so there is part of it. I think without getting a smaller pump there is not going to be one answer to fix the issue. not to say it cant be done its just going to take some creative plumbing. :)
 

skebo

Blenny
M.A.S.C Club Member
I have not choice at this point, but to be "all in" on this pump for now. I can get a smaller one later and use this as a backup. We have a lot of things coming up next week, so if I don't get this setup by the end of the weekend, it will have to be put on hold for awhile. Not to mention I have already poured out cash for where I am so far.

If I pump 2600gph up to the dt, and pump the remaining 2200gph back into all sumps or some other creative way, should I drill out 2" bulkheads in them all to link Them together to support that kind of transfer? Shoud I have a seperate bulkhead in 1 sump for the return pump, or have it connect to a T on this linkage assembly so as to pull from all three and increase the flow through it if it was say only 1" linkage?
 

CRW Reef

Blue Whale
M.A.S.C Club Member
ex-officio
This is crazy I know but you could run from the floor (pump location) up the wall, then back down to floor and then back up to the returns. Would cut the flow in half right?
 

skebo

Blenny
M.A.S.C Club Member
Lol. I was thinking just come out the manifold with a splice and run it to a pond Not yet created in the backyard . No need to really dig a hole, just pump the water up there and let it blast into the ground. Soon I would have a nice little lake.

Aside the super pump, does anyone run multiple tanks off of multiple sumps?
 

Wicked Color

Tiger Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
CRW Reefer;147915 said:
This is crazy I know but you could run from the floor (pump location) up the wall, then back down to floor and then back up to the returns. Would cut the flow in half right?
your right, that is crazy!
 

CRW Reef

Blue Whale
M.A.S.C Club Member
ex-officio
Wicked Demon;147920 said:
your right, that is crazy!
Well so is the amount if gallons his pump puts out a minute right? Lol. You don't think that would work? I mean aside from pipe and fitting costs which is cheap. Either way Neil my thoughts are with you my friend.
 

Wicked Color

Tiger Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
CRW Reefer;147925 said:
Well so is the amount if gallons his pump puts out a minute right? Lol. You don't think that would work? I mean aside from pipe and fitting costs which is cheap. Either way Neil my thoughts are with you my friend.
I would just T the return with ball valves and send some flow back to the begining of the sump
 

skebo

Blenny
M.A.S.C Club Member
to consider. The pump has reducers on it that take it from 1.5" to 1" barbed. While I would not use the barb the reducer will restrict flow. Further when it gets over the overflow it is going to splice out several ways from the 1" to the 3/4 inch black movable jet things. I don't know what they are called. There would be 2 a line which would equal the 1.5" but the max flow would be at the 1" rate under pressure.
So how to know the gph for 1" pipe under pressure? While this should have some variance I would guess, it has to be more then the 600gph gravity rate but still limited. This would be a major factor in how much water I would need to divert back into the sumps. Does anyone know the gph for 1" pipe pressured?
 

CRW Reef

Blue Whale
M.A.S.C Club Member
ex-officio
Wicked Demon;147927 said:
I would just T the return with ball valves and send some flow back to the begining of the sump
I agree maybe just have a sump/holding tank that can have heavy fast flow through it. Neil, I think that one glass sump with the angled glass panel would work great for just that purpose.
 

skebo

Blenny
M.A.S.C Club Member
Wicked Demon;147927 said:
I would just T the return with ball valves and send some flow back to the begining of the sump
I agree as well, but its how to link sumps i am unclear on, how big that link needs to be, and if to have pump pluged into that link or to a sump with its own bulkhead. Im also trying to find the best solution for draining the 4x 3/4" from the 150 into 1 sump or several or some combo there off. I can reduce flow to dt in several fasions to get to no more then the 2600gph it is capable of draining. Granted i likely have a bit more head than calculated its best to plan on the max for a buffer. So at 4800 max, 2600 to dt, 2200 needs to be routed back into sump(s) somehow.

Are my pictures showing the drainage ideas correctly?
 

Wicked Color

Tiger Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
Just hook it up and see how it runs, then make adjustments, I have seen people do all the math and really over analyze stuff to the point of screwing it up.
 
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