ULM cubicle reef

mebeknob

mebeknob

Goby
#24
#24
Doh!

The one in back is the cold inlet to the water heater and the close one is hot outlet.
After I shut off the water main hit water backed into the cold line and made it hot.
So when I went to add my tee.... I touched each pipe to see which one was hot... and after much debate I tapped the wrong pipe


So I ran the RODI with hot water. But it’s not a huge deal. I’ll just go tap the other pipe to fix it.


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mebeknob

mebeknob

Goby
#26
#26


Cut the black film off for the ChateoMax light


Now I’m a little worried about light spillage into the other chambers....
I might get a super thin sheet of black plastic to put on the baffles


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mebeknob

mebeknob

Goby
#27
#27
Problem #2- I need suggestions!


So I have a lot to fit in a small area.
The ATK does not really fit anywhere else. It’s not a bad spot in terms of water line... but proving to be in the way for everything else.

Need to get the probes and AWC tubes into the rear chambers somehow. Any ideas?


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zombie

zombie

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#30
#30
mebeknob said:
Problem #2- I need suggestions!


So I have a lot to fit in a small area.
The ATK does not really fit anywhere else. It’s not a bad spot in terms of water line... but proving to be in the way for everything else.

Need to get the probes and AWC tubes into the rear chambers somehow. Any ideas?


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Click to expand...
This might help. The temp probe can be fully submerged and doesn't need a probe holder.

https://www.saltwateraquarium.com/m..._CmEzYuhjPYAOwkUBtEuhyxEpUCylwRBoCYmAQAvD_BwE

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mebeknob

mebeknob

Goby
#31
#31
Spent some time getting the apex all dialed in and programmed. I mounted everything to a temporary board to keep it off the counter and hopefully out of water.



I then filled the tank up with RODI water to test and make sure everything works.


Well it doesn’t.


Neptune DoS has one broken head so I have to go through the RMA process... lame.

The radions don’t connect through the WXM module so I can only turn them on and off

Only 1 radion connected to the computer to program.....

Grrr


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mebeknob

mebeknob

Goby
#32
#32
I need thoughts...‍♂️‍♂️

While I’m building the stand... would you cycle the tank at home, then drain transport to work?

Or would you wait to cycle while in the office?


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zombie

zombie

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#33
#33
The tank is small enough it wouldn't be too difficult to transport the entire thing. I would at least cure the rock and sand in a 5 gallon bucket ahead of time. That will significantly reduce cycle time once the stand is ready.

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mebeknob

mebeknob

Goby
#34
#34
zombie said:
The tank is small enough it wouldn't be too difficult to transport the entire thing. I would at least cure the rock and sand in a 5 gallon bucket ahead of time. That will significantly reduce cycle time once the stand is ready.

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Click to expand...
So I decided to at least get saltwater in the tank with the rocks and sand.
I’m going to use algae barns refugium starter pack to cycle the tank... would you wait to do that in the office or at home?

My biggest worry is having an algae outbreak or stanky/ugly tank if things in the cycle don’t go right.


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zombie

zombie

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#35
#35
mebeknob said:
So I decided to at least get saltwater in the tank with the rocks and sand.
I’m going to use algae barns refugium starter pack to cycle the tank... would you wait to do that in the office or at home?

My biggest worry is having an algae outbreak or stanky/ugly tank if things in the cycle don’t go right.


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Click to expand...
I would hold off on the fuge until it's set up in the office. It actually slows the anerobic cycle down because it competes for the nitrate and phosphate. I personally would let it cycle at home with no water changes and then do a 100% water change when you set it up at the office so you only have a mini cycle but still remove all the nitrates and phosphates.

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mebeknob

mebeknob

Goby
#36
#36
zombie said:
I would hold off on the fuge until it's set up in the office. It actually slows the anerobic cycle down because it competes for the nitrate and phosphate. I personally would let it cycle at home with no water changes and then do a 100% water change when you set it up at the office so you only have a mini cycle but still remove all the nitrates and phosphates.
Click to expand...
So what would you do for the cycle at home?




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zombie

zombie

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#37
#37
mebeknob said:
So what would you do for the cycle at home?




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Just add an ammonia source and a bacteria seed. You can use fish food, pure ammonia, etc for the ammonia source. The bacteria source could be a bottle of dr Tim's, biospira, or a little rock/sand from a mature tank. You dont need heat or light, but you need flow.

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mebeknob

mebeknob

Goby
#38
#38
zombie said:
Just add an ammonia source and a bacteria seed. You can use fish food, pure ammonia, etc for the ammonia source. The bacteria source could be a bottle of dr Tim's, biospira, or a little rock/sand from a mature tank. You dont need heat or light, but you need flow.
Click to expand...
Okays that’s what I was thinking Dr Tim’s and some pure ammonia.



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SynDen

SynDen

Administrator
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#39
#39
Ya just add saltwater, rock and little pee in a bucket ;) and keep it circulating. Give it a 50% water change once the cycle completes and its ready to go. Do the fuge, and all that there, but no reason not to do the rock, which takes the longest to cycle. Everything else will cycle and establish much quicker, but rock can take a very long time, especially if its dead or dried
 
Andrew_bram

Andrew_bram

Tiger Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#40
#40
SynDen said:
Ya just add saltwater, rock and little pee in a bucket ;) and keep it circulating. Give it a 50% water change once the cycle completes and its ready to go. Do the fuge, and all that there, but no reason not to do the rock, which takes the longest to cycle. Everything else will cycle and establish much quicker, but rock can take a very long time, especially if its dead or dried
Click to expand...
Hey you stole my line.

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